Fonghwang Tan-chung
(Fenghuang Dancong or Select) Tea
The
single trunk rises straight up, and the branches open out like an
umbrella. Pickers must use tall ladders or climb up into the leafy
tops. These trees, which yield the leaves for Fonghwang Tan-chung
oolong tea, are specimens of the Fenghuang Shuixian strain which
have been selected for careful breeding as straight-trunk trees. The
name Fonghwang Tan-chung means Fenghuang Select. Fenghuang (phoenix)
is the name of a mountain near the coast in northeastern Guangdong
province. This tea is believed to have been a Song dynasty tribute
tea.
During infusion, the long golden-brown strips of processed leaves
sharply reveal their oolong characteristic by turning a pronounced
green in the center and brownish red around the edges. The clear,
orange-brown beverage has a strong natural aroma. The first taste is
somewhat bitter, but this tea is valued for its durable infusion and
long-lasting pleasant aftertaste.
The people of the nearby Shantou (Swatow) area are known for
their particular way with these leaves for gongfu tea (tea brewed
with great skill). They make it strong, using miniature tea sets
with a small teapot and tiny cups the size of a half-walnut.
Particular attention is paid to cleanliness and quality of water.
The first infusion is one minutes. The second one of three minutes
is the best time for savoring the mellow taste, sip by sip. The
third may take five minutes, but many think that this infusion is
too weak.
