This tea is famed for its medicinal properties. The leaves come from
the Yunnan province Dayeh (large-leaf) variety of broad-leafed tea
tree, which may be more closely related to the original ancient tea
tree of pre-glaciation times than the smaller-leaved one. It is
marketed in bulk as Pu-erh, shaped into cakes as Pu'er Cake Tea and
into the bowl-shaped cakes called Yunnan Tuo Cha. (Tuo Cha can also
be green.)
The peoples of the Yunnan-Tibet border have drunk Pu-erh since the
Tang dynasty, according to a Song dynasty scientific reference. The
troops of Kublai Khan, "pacifying" the southwest after the
thirteenth century Mongol conquest, are said to have introduced
Pu-erh to the rest of China for its medicinal value.
Tea
from these high mountains has traditionally been carried in shoulder
baskets through primeval forests (now there are hairpin-curve roads)
for processing and sale in the tea market at the county town of
Pu'er. Located in central south Yunnan, Pu'er county itself does not
grow tea, but the name it has given to this variety has become
internationally known.
Pu-erh is often taken for relief of indigestion and diarrhea.
Modern medical tests indicate its effectiveness in reducing
cholesterol. Pu-erh is customarily kept for a long time, and in
Asian tradition leaves with a light coating of mold are considered
the best and to have the greatest medicinal effect. However, tests
in two universities and a medical center in Japan showed no
significant difference between two and twenty-year-old Pu-erh in
reducing cholesterol.
Pu-erh is viewed as a mild tea, suitable for young and old, and
for persons with strong or weak constitutions. Yunnan Tuo Cha, a
form of Pu-erh, received the Ninth International Food Award at a
conference in Barcelona, Spain, in 1986.
Pu-erh is very special because of a unique combination of
factors. It is an unusual large-leafed variety, it enjoys special
growing conditions with the combination of climate and soil in the
Yunnan mountains, and it is semi-fermented, but for a longer time
than oolong.
The taste has been described as mellow, however those not
accustomed to it might not enjoy the "old" - perhaps "elemental" or
"earthy" are better words - taste, particularly in the first
infusion. For others, however, this flavor will add to its aura of
wonder, and seem fitting in a tea prized for its medicinal
properties. Some people recommend first getting used to Nuoshan
Pu'er, which has less of this taste. Or Pu-erh may be mixed with a
little Yinzhen to cut the "old" flavor and create an unexpected new
one. Pu-erh is known for maintaining flavor through multiple
infusions.
A combination of Pu-erh and Chrysanthemum tea (made from the
small pale yellow blossoms of the plant) is considered particularly
good for cooling internal heat, and is also delicious. Called Gupu
cha , it can be requested in Cantonese teahouses as Gook Po cha.
Another famous Cantonese specialty is Pu-Show (Pu-erh and Show
Mee). The later, a white tea, is classified as "cool" by traditional
pharmacology, and is sometimes neutralized with a combination that
also yields a new flavor.
Pu-erh tea is sold loose, or in pressed form named for the shape
in which a block is molded. These include:
Tuocha, bowl tea, shaped by pressing into a bowl.
Bingcha (Beng Cha), cake tea. It come in large and small
stacks of seven layers, thus sometimes called Qi Zi (Seven Sons),
and sold in Hong Kong, Macao and Southeast Asia. Small-size cakes
are consumed by the Tibetan people.
Tuancha, ball tea, in ping-pong ball size and up. Balls of
this tea used for tribute were the size of a head, and it was called
Head Tea.
Fangcha (square), and Pu-erh Zuncha (rectangular).
Yunnan has three plucking seasons, which provide the names for
special kinds of Pu-erh:
Chunjian (Spring Tips) plucked between Qingming and the
Grain Rain (roughly April 5 to 15). It has abundant fine, long white
hair.
Ershui (Second Crop) plucked from early June to July.
These fat, juicy leaves are made into pressed tea.
Guhua (grain Flower) plucked between Bailu (White Dew) and
Shuang Jiang (Frost Descends) in October. With plenty of fine, white
hair, it is used to make cake tea.
